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Luang Prabang Pigs Out
13 December 2016 Luang Prabang Pigs Out By Bernie Rosenbloom Luang Prabang’s hotels and restaurants hold “The Battle of the Pigs” to raise funds for families making their livings at the dump. Troy Matusow frequently visits the Luang Prabang dump. The man behind Asia One Resort Supply knows the people who live amid piles of plastic under tarps. He’s watched them eke out a living by scavenging through the garbage pit, and often brings them water and food. But, he knows this is far from a fix. John Morris Williams, the general manager of Luang Prabang View Hotel, began joining Troy on his trips. “What I saw is alarming,” observed Big John. “Even the kids work in this very appalling situation. They scrape a few kip together to stay alive and feed their families, but nothing more. Still, they always smile.” He paused. “They live off our waste! What can we do for them?” Let the Battle Begin Troy and Big John brought their discussion of the recyclers’ plight to the Luang Prabang Motorcycle Club in October. The debate required lager lubrication. Joining them were Paul Burnett and Brent Rinehart. All four have time behind a stove, and professional cooking conversations often get heated. Paul is Lanith’s Food Production Advisor, and once served guests of Australia’s prison’s…though not as an inmate. Big John spent years as a 5-star executive chef, and Brent displays his culinary talents in southern Laos. As for Troy, he once owned The Hive restaurant, with a menu based almost solely on pork. He even offered a veggie burger with bacon. The dialogue about the dump dwellers’ dilemma twisted into who was the best pork chef. According to Paul, “Brent came out with, ‘I cook the best ribs in the world’. My reply was, ‘Actually mate, I reckon that bloke does the best ribs,’ and I pointed to Troy. Big John suggested that we have a contest to see who the best rib cook is, and it evolved from there.” . Big John noted. “So, after a few more beers and cocktails, and intense debate, we decided to hold something similar to the battle of the bands like in the ‘Blues Brothers’. A few beers later we settled on The Battle of the Pigs.” It still seemed like a good idea the next morning. Big John said, “The basic aim of The Battle of the Pigs is to bring awareness of what’s going on at the dump…The people of Luang Prabang need to know about the families’ livelihoods and poor sanitation and working conditions, and what we are not doing for the community.” The proceeds from The Battle of the Pigs would be earmarked for providing appropriate clothing for working with garbage, and improving water and sanitation facilities and equipment. A Community Effort Troy, Paul, and Big John huddled up to organize the December 10th function. They set a goal of 250 guests at 50,000 kip per head for 12.5 million kip, or some $1,500. Support and funding for The Battle of the Pigs would rely on goodwill from the tourism community, who readily jumped on board. Lanith Luang Prabang Director Chounlachan “Nickie” Phengdy provided the venue and facilities. Her staff and students at the Technical Vocational Education & Training College pitched in. Lanith also rented the tables, chairs, and iceboxes, and offset the cost with alcohol sales. Alex Garcia from Sofitel Luang Prabang stepped up with 15 kg of cooked pork, and Alistair Jones pitched in for additional food items. Paul’s wallet found money for cutlery. “All items are recyclable….plastic cups, tinnies, plastic cutlery, paper plates, etc. All garbage at the event will be separated.” The number of sponsors and supporters from Luang Prabang’s tourism and hospitality community skyrocketed. Chefs Somsak Sengta (Blue Lagoon) and Khamphoui Thavngsy (Luang Prabang View) signed up. A list of hotels followed suit: Amantaka, Belle Rive, The Sanctuary, Victoria Xiengthong, and Villa Maly, along with Mekong Cruises. More support poured in from the F&B crowd such as the Buffalo Dairy, German Butcher, Thansimay Supermarket, Joma Bakery Cafe, Saffron Coffee, and Richard Prewer. Queen Designs boutique joined the fray, and for entertainment, The French Fries & German Sausages performed for free, backed by guitarist, Lam. Showtime The six-week build up from the October barroom boast seemed to be going smoothly. The situation begged for a hiccup. “Salad,” Paul urgently emailed with five days to go. Paul takes salad seriously. He once scolded me over a head of lettuce. I had mistakenly bought a ball of green leaves called cabbage. Paul pleaded, “We would ask all those who would like to attend to bring some salads or vegetarian food to contribute to this great charity and event.” Big John wanted solid salad numbers. “Some” didn’t work. Paul responded, “Five kilos would be great. Up to you!” Big John coughed up the greenbacks, and Paul and the Lanith staff were in vegetable heaven. The gates opened at 16:00, with Big John collecting tickets and money. People began trickling in and sipping Beer Lao as the chefs and Lanith got ready for the 18:00 feeding time. By the time the dinner bell rang, the seats and tables for 250 were almost full, and people kept coming. A 19:00 phone call found Paul in a salad-tossing frenzy, and no time to talk. Guests were feasting like Roman warriors. Food was running low. Big John announced more than 300 people had passed through the gate. It was standing room only when the band and guitarist went on stage, and they, along with Beer Lao, carried the crowd until midnight. “We didn’t have enough tables and seats,” Big John admitted. “We were only prepared for 250, but it was great to see a mixed crowd of locals and expats. Some dishes went faster than others, but all the guests said the food was great.” Big John was still counting the proceeds the next day. “So far, we’ve taken in nearly 15 million kip ($1,800). It was a success for sure. People are already asking for another one.” Big John, Troy, and Paul are already discussing The Battle of the Pigs 2, possibly within six months, with an eye on a third round next December. The local tourism community is eager to raise funds for other causes. So, who won Luang Prabang’s inaugural Battle of the Pigs? According to Big John, the event spiralled way beyond a rib-cooking contest. “The big winners here are the families living in the dump, and the people of Luang Prabang, who will never again look at their garbage the same.”
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Lord Puttnam Tackles Lao Tourism Challenges
15 March 2016 Lord Puttnam Tackles Lao Tourism Challenges By Bernie Rosenbloom Oscar-winning producer Lord Puttnam was recently walking along Luang Prabang’s streets. He notices a fine-looking four-storey hotel topped with a terrace. He hikes up the stairs and takes in the view. He then asks the staff if he can order a drink. The smiling worker replies, “Yes sir, on the first floor.” Lord Puttnam’s anecdote kicked off his keynote address at the 18th Lanith Symposium on the challenges and barriers in growing Lao tourism. Lord Puttnam has been coming to Laos for 30 years, and considers himself, “A real friend of Laos,” but also a “critical friend.” He is currently the UK Prime Minister’s Trade & Cultural Envoy to Vietnam, Laos, and Cambodia. He ended his Luang Prabang story to the 70-plus attendees at the event, held at the British Embassy in Vientiane, saying the experience shows the “half-shaked attitude” of many Lao tourism and hospitality staff. Lord Puttnam’s ensuing observations covered an array of challenges facing Lao tourism. He confronted the confusing arrival experience. “It’s like entering the Third Word,” compared to its neighbors, said the producer of the classic film, “Midnight Express”. “The visa process in Laos is cumbersome. It’s the reverse of nice.” He referred to the well-worn “Thai smile”, and asked, “Can we develop Lao tourism without losing its charm?” In Laos, Lord Puttnam sees a “discontinuity in development”. He warned about Lao tourism’s reliance on donor funding. “Laos needs to unhook itself from donors… Donor dollars are stretched in favor of crisis areas. It’s a struggle to make a case for the tourism and hospitality industry.” Lord Puttnam addressed Laos’ tendency to place too much weight on arrival figures. “Arrival numbers are only half the story…Laos needs to add value to this statistic…What is certain is Laos needs more tourists who spend more money.” He suggested boosting value with more creative products. “This country is blessed with the Mekong,” Lord Puttnam said. He noted Laos’ river cruise offerings and itineraries are limited. He said the traditional transportation boats and upscale vessels may suit some visitors. However, others want smaller boats offering niche experiences and charters, “but this doesn’t exist in Laos.” He stressed Laos must deliver an authentic experience and instill a desire to return. “Tourism is about memories. This is what tourists take home,” he said. “Laos can provide these memories.” Hospitality plays a large role in positive memories, but, “Restaurants in Laos face challenges,” Lord Puttnam said. He noticed some eateries serve international dishes, but waiters don’t know English. “It’s a topsy-turvy relationship.” He added that a restaurant can display a large gap between good and bad. The décor may be nice, but the menu doesn’t live up to the atmosphere, and the food is often “skuzzy.” Lord Puttnam stated that getting a qualified workforce requires a strategy. “Talent is scarce, but it is a global asset. Laos wants to be talented, but there is a war for talent.” Oliver Horn is battling in the war for talent. He is the general manager for Vientiane’s soon-to-open Crowne Plaza of the InterContinental Hotel Group (IHG). He described his hunt for Lao staff, “We want to fill positions with local talent, but there is a small pool to choose from that meets IHG standards.” He added, “We’re trying to find the jewels…(but) we can’t even find department heads, so have to go with expats.” He noted that for every 100 interviews, the hotel hires 10. “Usually, we hire three out of four. This is a big challenge.” When seeking Lao talent, Mr Horn said IHG mostly looks for basic English skills and the proper attitude. “We have training vouchers…Development agencies provide a host of training projects, but they tend to target the rural poor.” He said attention must focus on differentiating the need for talent in popular destinations and remote villages. He added, “Everyone is trying to bite into the same cake, but we need a larger cake. How can we make a bigger cake?” To build the workforce, Mr Horn suggested an image campaign that shows the exciting side of hospitality. He recommended using success stories to recruit talent. “Family-run properties don’t understand human capital development.” He added that students question why they should choose a career in hospitality over one in another field. British Ambassador to Lao PDR Hugh Evans pointed to Lanith (Lao National Institute of Tourism and Hospitality) as part of the solution, calling it, “One of the world’s centers of excellence for tourism development.” Lord Puttnam said Lanith’s concept is “sensational,” but needs better market exposure. “Not enough people know about it,” he said. “Lanith needs a marketing campaign.” Lao tourism also faces challenges in marketing and destination branding. M&C Saatchi’s Creative Chairman Ben Welsh presented a case study on the successful “100% Pure” New Zealand campaign. He explained their first step defined the concept as a “genuine, pure experience.” The campaign then maintained consistency in delivering this message. He said, “The world is becoming a similar place,” but visitors still want “to feel” an authentic experience. A successful campaign must make people want to go. They are seeking personal adventures and true interactions with locals. “Packages don’t deliver this unique experience.” Mr Welsh said, “What can Laos do to leverage someone else’s budget? Use digital media. Make the audience work for you.” He added Laos should leverage the “I’ve been there and you haven’t” mind-set. Aneil Bedi, a partner at M&C Saatchi cautioned, “Laos suffers from Luang Prabang being the main mass destination, and it is not representative of the country…A Lao visit needs to be an emotional journey.” Dr Hannaa Osman from the University of Bournemouth agreed. “Luang Prabang has a story to tell…It’s all about the story…I want to know who made and developed things like crafts. Where is the story? People take pride in being part of the story, and they have a beautiful story to tell.” Lord Puttnam observed that in his recent visit to Luang Prabang’s Night Market, stating 90% of the products were identical. “Luang Prabang needs personalized handicrafts.” Regarding marketing responsibility, Mr Bedi said, “The Lao government should be responsible for raising awareness in the country, and the private sector’s job is to find the market.” He added that calculating the expected return on investment for marketing expenses “is guesswork, but $25 in tourism revenue for every dollar spent is what to shoot for.” Lanith Chief Technical Advisor Peter Semone closed the 18th Lanith Symposium, stating, “We had our first in 2010, and the event has gone far beyond our expectations. This could be my last one, but over the years we’ve touched on many topics and had many excellent speakers. We’ve had great interaction and positive outcomes. The Lanith Symposia is all about participation and coming up with new ideas.”
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18 May MTF Insights Tara
MTF Insights: Tara Gujadhur @ TAEC Tara is the co-director of the Traditional Arts and Ethnology Centre (TAEC), which is hosting the MTF’s “Intangible Tourism” session. She attended the 2012 MTF in Pakse, Laos, and heard about the Luang Prabang event from the ADB’s Steven Schipani. Having worked in tourism with development agencies for several years, she has known about the organiser, Mekong Tourism Co-ordinating (MTCO), since its 2006 launch. TAEC is a finalist in the Mekong Innovative Startup Tourism (MIST). What challenges does Luang Prabang face in hosting a multi-venue event? It will certainly mean more planning and logistics for the organisers. It also means that attendees can’t move from one session to another halfway, so we may get less attendees. MTF replies: True, as it relates to more planning and more work for the organisers. It is an experiment, and sometimes you have to try something new. If we don’t progress, we will regress. We have tried to match sessions in tracks that are of similar interest. But if somebody doesn’t get one session the first day, because it wasn’t part of the track that he picked because of the interest in a particular session, the delegate can select another track the second afternoon, as all tracks and sessions are repeated on day 2. What opportunities do you see for your organization in hosting the multi-venue MTF? We will be able to show our work directly to attendees! It’s a great way to bring people in through our doors and have them see and experience cultural tourism in Luang Prabang. What is your business, and Luang Prabang, doing to meet any challenges in hosting the MTF? We haven’t really had to do much — just keeping in touch with the organisers and talking with people to promote the event. We Are Lao asked several Luang Prabang businesses and organizations about the opportunities & challenges they face in hosting the multi-venue MTF, with MTCO Executive Director Jens Thraenhart, responding. This is the first instalment in the series.
