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Lao Thiao Lao Seeks Sustainable Tourism Growth in Vientiane Province
By Bernie Rosenbloom The Lao Thiao Lao Survey Team traveled to Vientiane Province on 24-27 August, to identify sustainable tourism products, meet with provincial and district tourism officials, and consult with tourism site developers to ensure sustainable tourism growth in the increasingly popular destination. Meuang Feuang Lao National Chamber of Commerce and Industry Tourism Director, Inthy Deuansavanh, and Tourism Sector Specialist, Phongsith Davading, led the team that included tour operators, investors, and media specialists, as they visited sites and met with government officials. Master Plan for Sustainable Tourism At the first of three meetings, Director of Vientiane’s Department of Information, Culture and Tourism Ms Inkham stressed the need for a solid Tourism Master Plan, adding “Districts must follow the provincial Master Plan and regulations for a sustainable future.” Ms Phongsith added that as tourism is expanding in the province, “Investors must follow the Master Plan to protect and sustain the environment. This is not just for nature, but culture, heritage, and religious sites.” Mr Inthy agreed, but cautioned that challenges include maintaining long-term sustainability and (preventing) factories and plantations from moving in. “These can interrupt the experience that tourists demand, and hinder tour operator’s ability to include them in their itineraries.” Mr Inthy also owns and operates Green Discovery Laos tours. He then shifted to promoting the Lao Thiao Lao domestic tourism campaign, noting the success of the ongoing Facebook page platform. “We have since contracted digital marketing company, Smart Technology, who produces our videos, and WeAreLao is supporting us by giving Laos exposure in the global travel trade media.” The LNCCI also launched the What’s Up Laos App on 26 August. What’s Up Laos App Ms Phongsith added that the Lao Thiao Lao promotion effort and survey team aim to “show the beauty of the provinces. The Lao Thiao Lao Survey Team has already inspected Khammouane, and plans to visit Luang Prabang, Oudomxay, and Champasak.” Meuang Feuang…Simply Beautiful For the Vientiane survey, stakeholders first focused on Meuang Feuang. According to Ms Inkham, “Meuang Feuang is gaining in popularity…It is already quite well known for its pristine nature, Nam Lik River and towering mountains. It can easily be tied to a Vientiane-Vang Vieng trip.” Meuang Feuang is about a 90-minute drive from both destinations. Click on Photo for Google Map Mr Inthy added, “My friends talk a lot about Meuang Feuang, and see potential for attracting the Thai market. In fact, many Lao tour operators are communicating with Thai agents, and Thai investors are showing interest in the area.” He stressed, “Tonight’s accommodation at Ban Lao Meuang Feuang has plenty of potential for the Thai market.” Ban Lao Meuang Feuang The Survey Team then headed to Meuang Feuang to meet with some 20 district officials and local tourism businesses, who expressed eagerness in growing the destination. They were also keen on following the provincial Tourism Master Plan, for which Ban Lao appears as a model. Ban Lao sits off the beaten track on the clean and clear Nam Lik River, and seamlessly blends with the uninterrupted surrounding nature and massive karst. Accommodation ranges from floating bamboo bungalows – with more under construction – to Lao-style houses with up to five bedrooms. Inside Ban Lao The property also hosts an area of stalls selling local products and traditional salas for dining on the area’s popular dishes. Future developments include an ethnic village with 10 houses, a coffee shop, and more eco-activities to join Ban lao’s bamboo rafting, boat rides, and swimming in the Nam Lik. A short drive up the river road led to Pha Teung with a distinct mountain view. The site is currently under construction, with a long wooden walkway crossing a broad rice paddy. A brainstorming session with the owner discussed adding camping, agro-tourism, and a restaurant. Pha Teung Walkway Further along, Had Don Kang, where the Nam Lik temporarily splits in two at the foot of a towering cliff, Mr Inthy said the location has potential, but needed upgrading. Had Don Kang “I’d suggest offering Lao massages and camping. Owners need to be creative when developing a site, and not just duplicate what others do, as each has its own character.” The journey continued to Sin Xay Temple, a sprawling complex being developed about 45 minutes south of the district capital. An endlessly long Naga serpent winds its way through a number of Buddhist shrines and religious structures backed by a sky-high mountain, and is already attracting visitors. Sin Xay Temple Vang Vieng’s Sustainable Expansion The Survey Team then travelled to Vang Vieng to meet with tourism officials and discuss the Master Plan, ongoing developments in Vang Vieng, and how it is sustainably expanding. “How will Vang Vieng move ahead, grow, and develop…Our survey shows Nam Lik has potential,” Mr Inthy said, and reiterated the challenge of expanding while saving the natural scenery. “We need eco-friendly activities, safety regulations, and to keep the rivers and riversides clean.” He added, “Foreign tourists accounted for 70-80% of pre-covid visitors to Vang Vieng. We need to raise service standards, especially at sites across river.” Ms Phongsith noted that the Asian Development Bank (ADB) is supporting the construction of the 26-km Western Loop road to help develop the vast area and its attractions across the Song River from Vang Vieng Town. Click on Photo for Google Map Before hitting the Western Loop, the Survey Team drove north about 1 km to Wonderful Tours’ natural park and Neverland restaurant on the Song River. The sprawling grounds presents the softly lit Angel Cave, and Tham Non (Lay Down Cave) through which tourists literally lay on tubes and pull on a rope to explore the river cave. The Wonderful Tours’ park also offers a zip-line course, swimming pool, and kayaking on the river. Wonderful Tours Park However the Survey Team would wait for their Song River adventure as they continued north to Pha Hom Clip and its pavilion restaurant known for its stream crabs. They travelled to the Organic Farm, boarded kayaks and long-tail boats, and returned to Vang Vieng Town. The Western Loop It’s impossible to cover the expansive Western Loop in a single day, as it opens the door to more than a dozen attractions including caves, six lagoons, viewpoints, and creative accommodation. The Survey Team first stopped at Blue Lagoon 2, where a small mountain stream fills the ponds with clear turquoise water. For activities, visitors can fly on a zip-line, jump into the lagoon from a tower, or simply relax in a bamboo hut with food from the onsite restaurant. Blue Lagoon 2 The Blue Lagoon 2 concession belongs to Mr Moksavan, who said Koreans and Europeans enjoy spending the day. According to local lore, people would soak in the sacred “Big Pool” to cure their ills. Mr Moksavan has divided the property into three zones to include 12 bungalows, activities, and a relaxation area with hammocks. He is also responsible for the upkeep of 50 hectares of the protected area around his site. Next up came InterPark featuring tent camping, flower gardens, swings over the lake and loads of dinosaur statues giving the mountainside site a Jurassic Park feel. Vang Vieng Interpark Angsavan Resort, a new accommodation jewel, sits at the far tip of the Western Loop, and features riverside A-frame villas with balconies and outdoor tubs, glamping with campfires, restaurant, and a pool with swings. Angsavan Resort The final stop, Ban Nathong Village, a CBT attraction, includes Blue Lagoon 1 and Pou Kham Cave (Crab Cave). The village profits from the $1.00 entry fee and restaurant, while providing life jackets, cave guides, and clean facilities. Blue Lagoon 1 The Survey Team ran out of time, bypassing other notable sites such as Tham Lom and Tham Chang Caves, Blue Lagoons 3 and 6, and Kaeng Nyui waterfall. The drive back to the capital took about an hour during which the Lao Thiao Lao Survey Team reviewed Vientiane’s potential as a sustainable and growing destination while stressing the need for a well thought out Tourism Master Plan. Click here for video (3:22) The “Survey to identify tourism products in Vientiane Province to be included in tour programs for Lao Thiao Lao” 24-27/8/2021 was supported by the GMS Tourism Infrastructure for Inclusive Growth Project, Ministry of Information, Culture and Tourism.
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Lao Thiao Lao Tackles “The Khammouane Loop”
By Bernie Rosenbloom It’s tough to find Khoun Kong Lang Lake on Google Maps. You’ll see a skinny gray line heading east off Route 13 just past Houay Aek. It ends at the mountains in Central Laos’ Khammouane Province. In reality, the 20-minute drive on a paved road leads to the Green World @ Khammouane, the latest addition to The Loop. Vans from Vientiane (4 hours) and nearby Thakhek, along with a Jeep from the Stone Forest, converged at Green World on 9 August. The small caravan unloaded provincial Department of Information, Culture and Tourism (DICT) officials, tour operators and consultants. Our four-day mission: identify products for tour programs in Khammouane for the ongoing Lao Thiao Lao (Lao Travel Lao) domestic tourism campaign. Green World executives, Ms Shirly and Mr Hospee, led us across the clear lake on a suspension bridge to the resort and activity zones. She explained that Green World had just soft launched, and aims to fully open in early 2022. “We plan to develop 27 activities in different zones,” Ms Shirly explained. The action menu listed zip-lining, kayaking, swimming in the lake, mountain and jungle trekking, and driving ATVs. She guided us through the accommodation. Twelve air conditioned glamping tents under bamboo roofs received a thumbs-up. Ms Shirly noted, “We can upgrade to 25 tents.” Next came a row of Lao-style wooden houses for families or small groups. A stretch of 26 sleeping capsules lined the lake’s shore. Back in the restaurant, the Lao National Chamber of Commerce and Industry (LNCCI) Tourism Director, Inthy Deuansavanh, rolled out a vision of the future for Lao Thiao Lao. Funding for marketing is scarce, he said, but UNESCO is showing interest. Currently, Lao Thiao Lao uses Facebook as its main marketing platform. Participating businesses post their deals and news, while visitors can directly book rooms, transportation, and tours. “We’d really like to develop an App, where people can find information and book direct,” Mr Inthy said, adding the App could be upgraded for global use, once the Covid lockdown ends. He stressed that the campaign is continually updating information to promote the country’s attractions, activities, accommodation, and eateries. “Marketing content keeps getting better and better,” Mr Inthy said. “This is why Lao Thiao Lao came to Khammouane, to promote the province.” A 45-minute drive from Green World reached Thakhek’s iconic 29-meter-high, golden-tipped Sikhottabong Stupa. The 1,500-year-old sacred Mekong Riverside shrine stands five km south of the provincial capital. Dinner was classic Lao. A long table hosted some 15 diners, and overflowed with spicy salads, soup, fish, chicken, pork, sauces, heaps of vegetables, and plenty of sticky and steamed rice. Hands darted to the dishes, while the DICT and Vientiane squads bantered and forged a PPP team. We spent the night at Mr Inthy’s Inthira Thakhek, a refurbished French colonial hotel at the town square. After breakfast, we boarded our vehicles and headed east on Route 12 through the 20-km Cave Alley. Stop1: Tham Pa Fa (Buddha Cave). Local villager, Mr Boun Nong, discovered the crevice with 229 ancient Buddha images in 2004. Its popularity led to construction of a walkway over a lagoon. A staircase then scales the mountainside to the crag concealing the Buddha statues. Some historians date Mr Boun’s find to the 6th century. Others point to an earlier Khmer origin. Next up, a wide, narrow-slit in the mountain opens to Nang Aen (Ene) Cave and a well-lit underground wonderland. Cement foot bridges seamlessly follow the 30-metre-high cavern’s softly lit contour. Below, boats ferry passengers across an underground lake. Outside, Nam Aen’s parking area had been upgraded since my 2011 visit. Kids can enjoy an adventure playground with rope-and-plank bridges and swinging disks. Tourists can cross the Nam Dom River on a suspension bridge and scale steel stairs to a short zip line. A mini-mart sells snacks and drinks, and Louis Café satisfies your caffeine fix. About 2 Km further along, Khoun Nam Khamdip has broken ground on a mountain-and-stream retreat. Small picnic huts already line the clear waters, and a temporary dam is creating a small lake and rapids. The owner said the site is already attracting locals, who want to eat, drink, and relax. He plans to build a resort with activities around the forest and cliffs. I wondered, that while Covid has shuttered many Lao travel businesses, do projects like this and Green World reflect Lao tourism’s “New Normal”? Perhaps. Inthy said visits to nature adventure parks with zip lining and camping were rising among foreigners before Covid, and are among the top attractions during Lao Thiao Lao. “Domestic arrivals to Khammouane have tripled during the campaign. Before the lockdown, Lao people with money traveled to the West. Now they are discovering the natural beauty of their own country, and the growing choice of exciting adventures they can enjoy.” The caravan continued towards the Nakai Plateau, when we suddenly peeled off at a rickety roadside market, where local delicacies awaited: dried geckos, giant bees, crickets, frogs, ant eggs, and squirming larvae that cost more per kilo than beef. Massive bags of crickets were the team’s top choice. With the insects tucked away, we headed a couple of km to Gnommalat and veered north onto Route 1E. Some 15 minutes later we reached the Nam Theun 2 Dam and its sprawling manmade lake. Another 10 minutes landed us at the Sunset Resort & Restaurant on one of the reservoir’s inlets for lunch, featuring fish caught that morning. Sunset’s lodging ranges from glamping and tent camping to classier villas. A beached “Pirate Boat” hosts functions, and the resort added to The Loop’s growing list of activities: ATVs, jet skis, boat rides, and kayaks. However, we had no time to play as the Phosy Thalang Guesthouse was in our sites, less than 30 km away. Operated by three sisters, the Phosy Thalang presents modest yet comfortable air-con rooms and a restaurant perched over the mountain-backed lake. Our crew boarded a pair of long boats for an hour-long cruise among the lake’s islands flanked by national protected areas. We landed on a grassy islet to take in the silent scene. Besides total relaxation, Phosy Thalang also offers an activity menu including trekking, camping, and village visits. However, our dinner menu presented hor d’oeuvres of the fried crickets bought at the market. I munched on fried crickets with Inthy, and chatted about Lao Thiao Lao and the future of tourism in Laos. Inthy again pointed to the 300% increase in domestic arrivals to Khammouane during the campaign, with nature as the main attraction. Nationwide, we agreed natural adventure parks and activities have great potential, as seen in their proliferation throughout the country. But, we put our discussion on hold, as more thrills awaited. The next day, we continued to Lak Xao and the downhill run west on Route 8. We stopped at the Nam Theun Bridge, where aluminum boats, made from discarded fuel tanks dropped from US jets during the Indochina War, awaited passengers for a river cruise. However, we would board boats at Konglor Cave. The journey jerked south at Ban Nahin for a drive through the Phou Hin Poun National Protected Area. The paved road to Konglor runs along rice paddies in a valley between “Stone Forest” cliffs. Guesthouses began popping up as we approached. When I first visited Konglor Cave 15 years ago, a rough dirt road led to the remote community. Accommodation was mostly village visits and a simple CBT lodge. From there, a 1-km boat ride led to the cave. On this day, we drove to the Kong Lo View Hotel & Resort, and a quick upstream paddle on the Hinboun River to the cave. A cascade poured from a black mountain void that opened into a wide, tall cavern. We climbed over boulders to long-tail boats to navigate the 7.5 km underground waterway. Our only light now came from miners lamps strapped to our heads. We landed at a sandy cave beach and walked to inspect rock formations named for their shapes: “Buddha”, “frog”, “owl”, and “fish trap”. From boats to four wheels, we paraded off to the cherry on top of our trip, The Rock Viewpoint at Phou Pha Man, Inthy’s latest creation on Route 8. We pulled into a surreal lodging area. Capsules rolled down the edge of a Stone Forest cliff. The interior resembled a space-age train sleeper for two, with an overhanging balcony offering an above-cloud morning view of the limestone skyscrapers. A pair of more spacious Tree Houses sat just up the driveway. Inthy showed us the under-construction reception and function room building, where an infinity pool will soon jut out from the cliff. A 100-meter walk took us to the Rock Viewpoint’s Khop Chai Deu restaurant, bar, and zip-line launch pad, the place I most feared. I stared at the cable that disappeared into the forest of a mountain peak 400 meters away. A white canopy platform capped the rock tower, with suspension bridges and more zip lines crisscrossing a cluster of cliffs to get there. Inthy’s Green Discovery Laos adventure tours operates other zip lines and via ferratas (iron way) across the country. However, zip lines, bungee cords, parachutes, and roller coasters only appear on my “Avoid List”. Then came the long-table dinner with bottomless beer mugs. The conversation turned to the next day’s thrill-seeking event. Who was in? Then, all eyes zoomed in on me. I had to say, “Yes,” and was glad I did. We geared up the next morning. Some clicked their harnesses on the cable and jumped with delight. Others, like me, sat on the edge and then just dropped. I stared straight ahead – down was out – as speeds approached 65 kph (40 mph) before the brake kicked in at the landing. My heart rate had risen, but the fear vanished. I actually looked around on the following rope suspension bridges, via ferrata cliff climbs, and more zip lines to the pavilion and back. At the end, Inthy informed me that this circuit is the toughest in Laos, and he’s extending it. After catching my breath, I sat with Inthy and discussed The Rock Viewpoint. “Except the two managers, all our staff are from the area, and we’ve hired agriculture experts to help the locals grow vegetables for the restaurant,” he said. “We contribute 2% of our revenue to the forest rangers, and are getting a handicraft trainer to teach locals so they can sell their goods in our shop.” He also uses solar power for outdoor lighting and biogas from waste. Following lunch, we waved goodbye to the Khammouane DICT, and left on the 4-hour drive to Vientiane, stopping at a market selling bags of fresh rock crabs. As we continued, I thumbed through my photos and pondered. Perhaps there is a silver lining for Lao tourism during the Covid lockdown. Lao Thiao Lao has thrown a lifeline to private sector survivors, who have been praising the campaign. The pause has also allowed the destination to focus on defining what unique niche it fills in the domestic, regional, and global market place. It’s a chance to discover its place in the New Normal. Zip lines and natural adventure activities could play a part if balanced by relaxation. As the Lao Thiao Lao team continues to scour the country, the picture will become more refined. The crabs staged a jailbreak as we opened the van door in Vientiane. Five got away…and launched the Crab Thiao Lao campaign. I wished them luck. Meanwhile, the Lao Thiao Lao team will next head to Vientiane Province to seek what is exciting, relaxing, and new. The “Survey to identify tourism products along the Loop in Khammouane Province to be included in tour programs” Lao Thiao Lao” 9-12/8/2021 was supported by the GMS Tourism Infrastructure for Inclusive Growth Project, Ministry of Information, Culture and Tourism. To view a video of the team’s Loop adventure (2:52), click here. Bernie Rosenbloom brings more than 20 years of experience in marketing copywriting and journalism to the Lao travel trade. He has been a senior contributor for PATA Compass Magazine, Lookeast, and visitsoutheastasia.travel (ASEAN site). Bernie has also written copy for Delivering Asia Communication, Best Western, Le Meridian, and THAI Airways, and authored several Lao provincial guide books after moving to Laos in 2006. In 2016, he joined with John Morris Williams to establish WeAreLao.com as an informative destination marketing platform.
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Laos Tourism: Seminar, Stats, and Easing Restrictions
By Bernie Rosenbloom The Lao travel trade sparked to life late last week, with a tourism and hospitality webinar, easing of restrictions after a rigid six-week Covid lockdown, and the publication of the “Statistical Report on Tourism in Laos 2020”. Laos Tourism & Hospitality Roundtable The European Chamber of Commerce and Industry in Lao PDR hosted an online “Roundtable Meeting for Hospitality & Tourism” on Thursday, 3 June, with some 25 travel trade stakeholders taking part. Countrywide participants represented a range of sectors: hotels and restaurants, DMCs, development partners, and the media. Attendees shared their thoughts and actions covering a myriad of topics. Participants voiced their current situations, with many noting the current lockdown erased much of the progress made during the Lao Thiao Lao domestic tourism campaign. Several said overhead has presented a major burden during the lockdown, such as electricity and staff costs to ongoing maintenance. Many wondered if the government would be offering assistance, while others noted that officials relied on input from the private sector before considering relief. Closures of tourism and hospitality enterprises generated concern. Lee Sheridan, representing Luxembourg Development, stated their “Skills for Tourism Project” had been compiling data regarding business closures, and would continue once the lockdown loosened. (Clarification: “We are conducting an Enterprise and Skills survey for the sector, for which we are in the process of identifying businesses that are open for participating in the survey.” Lee Sheridan) WeAreLao Co-founder John Morris Williams pointed to a pre-lockdown 2 survey he had conducted of 385 hotels and guesthouses in Luang Prabang, and found just 35 (9%) remained open. This triggered calls for a start to reopening the borders using travel bubbles with Thailand and Vietnam, for vaccinated travelers. Many cited Thailand’s “Sandbox” rules as a potential reopening model to watch. Laurent Granier, Co-founder and General Manager of Laos Mood Travel, reported that customers of their European travel agents, with who he continually communicates, are turning to African countries that have reopening plans in place. Mr Granier’s main concerns are that Laos is losing out on opportunities and risks falling off tourists’ radar screens. Inthira Group General Manager Stan Fradelizi expressed similar sentiments, stressing the industry faces extremely dire straits if the borders remained shut for much longer. EXO Travel Lao Managing Director Duangmala Phommavong reiterated the need for the private sector to present any reopening proposals they may have to Ministry of Information, Culture, and Tourism. Ms Phommavong also serves on the Lao National Chamber of Commerce and Industry’s (LNCCI) Board of Directors. The LNCCI has taken the lead in implementing the previously mentioned Lao Thiao Lao campaign with initial financial support provided by the Skills for Tourism Project. Mr Sheridan said the project will continue supporting the campaign for a few months, but the project is coming to a close. Still, efforts are being made to secure funding to continue with the highly popular and successful domestic travel campaign. USAID’s Melvin Spence noted their mission’s plans include becoming more involved in tourism, with an eye on developing SMEs and marketing sustainable tourism. He also urged the private sector to engage with the Lao government with any projects in need of USAID support. Lockdown Extended…Restrictions Eased Laos began loosening its tight Covid-19 clampdown measures on Friday, 4 June, after six weeks of a continuously stringent lockdown. The Laotian Times reported the Prime Minister’s Office’s notice outlined the “gradual loosening of lockdown measures, with certain strict measures to remain in place” from 5-19 June. The Lao travel trade found a few rays of hope in the new measures, especially regarding restaurants, business events, and inter-provincial travel. Restaurants in low-risk areas may open their doors, but must observe social distancing and comply with all ongoing Covid-19 prevention measures. They cannot serve alcoholic beverages. The noose has also been loosened for meeting and conferences, with similar restrictions, and an emphasis on temperature checks, facemasks and hand washing. Hotel restrictions were not mentioned. Land transportation between provinces may continue under current regulations, though travel to high-risk communities is prohibited. Air travel may resume throughout the country, but only for passengers who have been fully vaccinated for at least one month. International borders will continue to remain closed. These new restrictions will remain in place through 19 June, at which time the government will reassess the situation. The country’s second major lockdown began on 21 April, after new cases began cropping up during Lao New Years that commenced the previous week. In the year leading up to the new outbreak, Laos had witnessed fewer than 50 cases, all of who recovered. This extremely low number is mostly due to the government taking swift and effective action. By 23 April 2021, the number of cases reached 159, the start of a spike that peaked on 26 April, with 113 new cases, bringing the total to 387. According to United Nations Geoscheme, new daily cases remained above 50 through 26 May, after which they tumbled to less than 20 per day, with many days below 10. Six new cases were recorded on 6 June, bringing the total to 1,963, with 246 active cases and three deaths. From a global perspective, Laos ranks 212th in cases per million people out of the 222 countries monitored by the UN. So, while the country’s Lao Thiao Lao domestic tourism campaign remains on hold, at least until 19 June, Laos continues as one of the lowest risk nations for catching Covid-19 in the world, while effectively continuing to test, trace, and roll out vaccines. Statistical Report on Tourism in Laos 2020 Laos’ 2020 tourism report began making the rounds last week, confirming the disastrous year. Some analysts might conclude that once the borders reopen, the country’s tourism would be starting at Year 1. Predictions for 2021 are certainly premature. Still, a review of the facts seems worthwhile, though there are no solid conclusions to draw. Laos welcomed 886,477 foreign arrivals in 2020, a far cry from the expected 4.9 million. January’s tally of 351,104 climbed 5.9% over the same month in 2019. February’s 345,900 showed a 2.5% increase, before the floor fell out in March, with a 51.9% drop to 189,443. The number then flat-lined for the rest of the year. Dreams of revenue breaking through the $1-billion barrier in 2020 were crushed. Tourism netted $213,367,141 last year compared to the $934,710,409 reaped in 2019. Domestic tourism also took a major hit, mostly due to the national lockdown that knocked out the peak travel period during Lao New Years in mid-April. Domestic visitor numbers reached 1,490,073 for 2021, down from the 7,358,039 recorded the year before. Measuring the impact of the Lao Thiao Lao campaign remains a guess, though it likely provided a much-needed boost. Overall, last week’s tourism and hospitality seminar and easing of lockdown restrictions somewhat reinvigorated the lethargic sector, and may mark a turning point in moving Lao tourism ahead.
